Dress-maker s chart



2 Sheets-Sheen 1. M.. E. RILEY. Dress-Makers Chart.

No. 223,543. Pa1enfed1an.13,1s8o.

VmvENToR ATTORN CY 2 Sheets-Sheen 2.

M. E. RILEY. DreslsMakers Chart.

No. 223,543. PatentedJan. 13, |880.A

WITNESSES INVENTOR (l'wmlqm ATTORNEYS MPETERS. FHOTD-UTHCGRAPHER.WASHINGTONy D C.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

MARTHA E. RILEY, OF HABRISBURG, OREGON.

DREss-MAKERS CHA-RT.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 223,543, dated January13, 1880.

I Application filed May S, 1879.

To all 'whom t may concern Be it known that I, MARTHA E. RILEY, ofHarrisburg, in the county ot' Linn and State of Oregon, have inventedcertain new and useful Improvements in Patterns for Cutting Garments;and I do hereby declare the following to be a full, clear, and exactdescription of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in theart to which it appertains to make and use the same, reference being hadto the accompanying drawings, and to letters ot` reference markedthereon, which form a part of this specification.

My invention relates to patterns for cutting garments by, and isdesigned to provide improved means whereby a great variety of garmentscan be accurately cut and shaped by persons having no especial trainingin such matters.

In the accompanying drawings, A, B, and C represent the different formsof chart used.

Arepresents the bias-rule, which is of general oblong torIn, having oneend tapering and both longitudinal edges graduated. This chart or ruleis designed to be used in getting all lengths,'widths, darts, seams,collars, &c.

B shows the chart for procuring neck, shoulder, back, and armmeasurements, and for cutting and fitting cloaks, yokes, halffittingbasques, and a variety of ladies garments, and for cutting coats, vests,Sto., in gentlemens apparel. This chart is provided with a number ofscales and graduations placed at suitable points on its surface. E E',the curved neckscale; F, the shoulder-notch; G, the arm-seye, andHI JKthe upper frontand back and lower front and back shoulder scales, beingin general oblong form, with one enlarged end, and having the curve forinside ot' sleeve formed at the side of said end.

C shows the skirt-scale, the oihce of which said skirt-scale G is to getthe proper curves necessary in the cutting of ladies aprons,dress-skirts, sleeves, bias-trimmings, and scallops, and for gentlemensshirts and underwear. This chart is provided with several graduatedscales for the several uses, as described.

These charts may be made of any desired material, butpreferably ofbook-bin ders board, with the scales and graduations printed thereon,and bound with brass, or of thin sheet-zinc, with the scales andgraduations clearly stamped in the metal.

The Inode of applying my cutting and fitting charts is as follows,taking as an example, in order that the manner ot' their use may be madeclear, the following tive measures-chest- In easure, thirty-two inches,neck-measure, fourteen inches, shoulder measure, seven inches, under armmeasure, eight inches, and waist- Ineasure, twenty-four inches: Firstdraft o' three-quarters of an inch forlap; place the bodypiece B withits straight edge or line drawn, and dot at A', the shoulder-pointopposite the point 32 on the upper and lower front scale, and draw aline seven inches long, which is in the example the shoulder-measure, bythe shoulder form or curve, (represented in the drawings by Jthe line LL' g) add now the required width for the outside seam, and place a dotat the point 14 on the curved neck-scale, keeping A on the first dot atthe point of neck; now reverse the rule back until the edge is even withthe dot; then draw a circle by the neck-rule.

For the arnI-scye, place the number 32 on the arIn-scye scale oppositethe two dots on the front-scale; dot at 2 on the scale, and, placing thenotch F on this dot, draft around to length of shoulder for arm-scye;now place the biasruleA straight across under arm-scye and dot at lowerside on the front edge; drop one and three quarters inch, with pointhalf across arIn-scye; dot at 8 and 6, using 13 on biasruleA, forcurving out and shaping darts; now place the bias-rule A with half ofits width across the dot, and drop the rule down, and draw a line acrossfrom the point of the rule; take out half an inch in the center of thefront, and place the irstdart one and two-thirds inch from the edge.This lirst dart will be two` inches in width, and is called thefront-dart. Between this and the back-dart, which is half an inchbroader, a space of three-quarters of an inch should be left.

To locate the top of the darts, place the biasrulelA straight acrossunder the arm, dot on the lower side, of which drop one and threequarterinch, and place the point of the rule halt` across the arnI-scye and dotat 35 and 6%.

For the waist-measure, place the bias-rule A IOO straight down underarm-seye eight inches for length of Waist; then place straight acrossfrom dart and drop half of Width down, and take out half an inch, and soon 5 dot at the number corresponding With the Waistuneasure, which is24, and add to the darts one inch for seam, and, placing,` the point 13onthe biasrule, curve out and draw aline to the bottom of the Waist.

To get the measurements for the back of the garment, draft oft' one inchfor the seam, and place the inside line (indicated at the line for Y theback) at the point of the neck, 32, on the upper back scale, and draw aline by the shoulder-form, and onefhali' an inch longer than the front;also, allowance should be made for the seam running into the shoulder;now place S on the chart C at the point of the shoulder, and draw a lineto the dot on the lower scale 5 add the seam and measure from under theback of the arm-scye straight down eight and one-third inches7 and,placing the arm-seye straight across, raise one-third of an inch andtake out three-quarters of an inch; then place the bias-rule A at theedge, and dot at 24 on the back-scale, add one inch for the seam, andplace the point of the rule curving in at the back of the arm-scye, anddraw a line from dot to dot.

Having fully described my invention, What I claim as new, and desire tosecure by Let-ters Patent, is-

In a chart for cutting garments by, the coinbination of the patternsABC, graduated, and of the configuration substantially described andshown.

In testimony that I claim the `foregoing I have hereunto set my handthis th day of April, 1879.

MARTHA E. RILEY.

Witnesses DAMON SMITH, HENRY MGGARTNEY.

